Once upon a time, there was a restaurant in Trastevere
(Rome) along one of the filthy, cobblestone streets leading to Piazza San
Cosimato. We nicknamed it the “Sad People Restaurant”.
One evening, we ambled around the neighborhood seeking
dessert and a drink. There was a mostly-empty sidewalk terrace with a dimly lit
table for four. After seating ourselves, we were eventually greeted by a woman
who seemed to be the owner. She didn’t greet us in a traditional manner,
though. She acknowledged our presence by rolling her eyes back into her skull
and subtly nodding to an unhappy male waiter, as if to say “Look who’s shown
up. Should we serve them?” He responded to her with a shrug, as if to say
“Yeah, more clients. I am tired of them too.”
We were ignored by the pair for a brief eternity. Then, I
dared to ask for four glasses of red wine and two portions of tiramisu. They
looked at each other, as if to say “You’re gonna get that, right?”
Why did they seem so upset? We speculated as we waited for
our acidic wine and a sour substance they claimed was tiramisu, which only
brought us down (tiramisu means roughly, lift me up). Did their cat die?
Did they lose their lease? Did the chef call in sick again? After assessing the
owner and waiter, we concluded that they were simply rude and sad.
After that unfortunate evening, the “Sad People Restaurant”
intrigued me each time I happened by. The owner stands in the doorway and
frowns. The diners mope as they twirl their spaghetti con vongole or reach
painfully for their wine glass. I would like to think that the restaurant is
clever at marketing. After all, there are a lot of sad (and rude) people in the
world. Perhaps this was a way of building a niche “tribe”.
Most clients, though, seem trapped and confused. The
neighborhood is nice enough and the large, white, globe-shaped lamps are
inviting. As they taste their tepid meal and clink glasses, they gaze out
through the dry, potted bushes that surround the sidewalk terrace like caged
animals at a zoo. They make gestures to passers-by, as if to say, “Please help
us” or “Keep walking, quickly.”
Tonight, as we returned home after enjoying a wonderful
gelato, we passed the “Sad People Restaurant”. The terrace was surprisingly
full. There was no laughter, though, and people only whispered things like “Can
you pass the salt?” and exhaled responses like, “OK.”
We reached the end of the sidewalk and I stretched my neck for
a last glimpse. The white globes shown through the dark leaves surrounding the
terrace.
(original version June 27, 2016)
Photo Eric De Sena, 2016
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