Edit and I had the great pleasure of spending 6 weeks in
Rome in the summer of 2016. I was invited to teach a course in Roman archaeology at John
Cabot University. It was the first time back in Rome after a four year absence.
I had lived there 15 years, 1997-2012.
When we arrived, I had mixed feelings. On the one hand, I
was excited to be back with the anticipation of being in Rome again, seeing
friends, and revisiting places I have been hundreds of times. On the other
hand, I perceived that Rome had changed...for the worse. Rome has always
attracted tourists and there were many this summer. But after a very short time,
I realized that the tourists weren’t the problem. All the vultures hovering
around the tourists bothered me.
Rome had become touristy – too many people hassling you to
buy something you don’t need/want; too many annoying waiters herding tourists
into their traps; too many people selling their souls to take money from
tourism. Rome was already heading along a bad road in the 2000’s – several “interest
groups” (ehem…politicians and friends) realized how much money they can make by
exploiting tourists.
I had a physical need to seek what I perceived as “authentic
Rome”. I knew that “authentic Rome” still existed somewhere and I needed to
find it.
At first, after having seen so many new shops, pubs, and
restaurants in the city, I thought that I needed to find old-looking places. I
focused on restaurants and bars and was looking for tripa, carbonara, fritti,
and old waiters wearing white shirts, black trousers and a black waistband. But
as I searched, I noticed that even some of the “old” establishments had jumped
on the tourism bandwagon.
As we were staying in Trastevere, this old Roman
neighborhood was the epicenter of my quest. Two of the “old” restaurants I knew
had remained “authentic”. The clients were a mix of Italians and tourists, but
no vultures waited on the street to catch our attention. Our favorite
“authentic” Trastevere restaurant is “Capo di Fero”, which is famous for their
rigatoni democratic (I still need to figure out their recipe…). The restaurant
opened in the late 1940’s and is staffed by outstanding and classy chefs and
waiters. The food is simple and excellent; prices are about average. The
interior hasn’t been updated recently, which is part of the charm. The key is
that no one treats you like a visitor – you’re treated like a neighbor. And
this is a large part of “authenticity” in Rome – being respectful and warm to
your neighbors.
During our stay, I had coffee at several of my favorite bars
(and many, many others). Thank goodness, apart from some changes to interior
design, my favorite bars they hadn’t changed: Settimiano in Trastevere, Il
Lucano between Largo Argentina (Feltrinelli side) and the Pantheon, and a bar near
the bottom of via Cavour, opposite one of the entrances to the Foro Romano
whose name I never knew. They all had the same staff (after all, only 4 years
had passed) with a few additions. They treat everyone well, including strangers
– but if you are a regular, they are like the bar of the 1980’s sitcom “Cheers”
where everyone knows your name. Great coffee, some morning chit-chat, a glance
at the newspapers gathered on a nearby table, and a “ci vediamo domani” when
you leave.
One day, while Edit and I wandered around the city, we
stopped at a modern-looking café on via dei Serpenti. At first, we just wanted
a coffee, but we saw that they offered ready-made food which looked great, so
we decided to have lunch. We had grilled vegetables, a quinoa salad, and, of
course, coffee. It was a modern interpretation of a classic Italian “tavola
calda”! Great food, great prices, friendly staff…new, but authentic. This was a
revelation for me – authentic didn’t need to be old, but it was something from
the heart. True to oneself. Develop an interesting concept and go for it.
We stumbled upon another great, new authentic bistro not far
from the via Cavour Metro B stop – “Cucina e Camicia”. A simple daily menu, a
friendly staff, great food (and no one prostituting themselves to drag in
clients). They seem to serve the nearby engineering school of University of
Rome, but all clients are treated well. Did I mention they offer great food?
Despite the negative change in Rome, there are many
“authentic” Romans. Outside of the food industry, the best example lies in the
local artists who surround Piazza San Cosimato. Not only have they taken a
great initiative of running a summer film festival, but they work with shop
owners to embellish Trastevere with street art! One Sunday, coming home from a
weekend at the seaside, Edit and I found our street, via Bertani, was the
center of Bertani Fest – a neighborhood festival featuring food, music, art,
and spectacle. There was even a sophisticated mechanism made of wood and rope
that dunked volunteers into a pool. Not just a simple, hit the target with a
ball and dunk the person into a pool, but a mechanism of gears, slides, and
counterweights that Leonardo Da Vinci might have designed. This was authentic
Trastevere!
Fortunately, I discovered authenticity midway through the
course, and I was able to enjoy Rome to its fullest. Once I realized what “authenticity”
meant for me, it became easy to identify and I realized there was still a lot
of authenticity in Rome.
(composed in summer 2016)
(composed in summer 2016)
Photos Eric De Sena, 2016.
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