Roma D.O.C. – the Search for Authenticity in Rome



Edit and I had the great pleasure of spending 6 weeks in Rome in the summer of 2016. I was invited to teach a course in Roman archaeology at John Cabot University. It was the first time back in Rome after a four year absence. I had lived there 15 years, 1997-2012. 


When we arrived, I had mixed feelings. On the one hand, I was excited to be back with the anticipation of being in Rome again, seeing friends, and revisiting places I have been hundreds of times. On the other hand, I perceived that Rome had changed...for the worse. Rome has always attracted tourists and there were many this summer. But after a very short time, I realized that the tourists weren’t the problem. All the vultures hovering around the tourists bothered me.



Rome had become touristy – too many people hassling you to buy something you don’t need/want; too many annoying waiters herding tourists into their traps; too many people selling their souls to take money from tourism. Rome was already heading along a bad road in the 2000’s – several “interest groups” (ehem…politicians and friends) realized how much money they can make by exploiting tourists.



I had a physical need to seek what I perceived as “authentic Rome”. I knew that “authentic Rome” still existed somewhere and I needed to find it.



At first, after having seen so many new shops, pubs, and restaurants in the city, I thought that I needed to find old-looking places. I focused on restaurants and bars and was looking for tripa, carbonara, fritti, and old waiters wearing white shirts, black trousers and a black waistband. But as I searched, I noticed that even some of the “old” establishments had jumped on the tourism bandwagon.



As we were staying in Trastevere, this old Roman neighborhood was the epicenter of my quest. Two of the “old” restaurants I knew had remained “authentic”. The clients were a mix of Italians and tourists, but no vultures waited on the street to catch our attention. Our favorite “authentic” Trastevere restaurant is “Capo di Fero”, which is famous for their rigatoni democratic (I still need to figure out their recipe…). The restaurant opened in the late 1940’s and is staffed by outstanding and classy chefs and waiters. The food is simple and excellent; prices are about average. The interior hasn’t been updated recently, which is part of the charm. The key is that no one treats you like a visitor – you’re treated like a neighbor. And this is a large part of “authenticity” in Rome – being respectful and warm to your neighbors.



During our stay, I had coffee at several of my favorite bars (and many, many others). Thank goodness, apart from some changes to interior design, my favorite bars they hadn’t changed: Settimiano in Trastevere, Il Lucano between Largo Argentina (Feltrinelli side) and the Pantheon, and a bar near the bottom of via Cavour, opposite one of the entrances to the Foro Romano whose name I never knew. They all had the same staff (after all, only 4 years had passed) with a few additions. They treat everyone well, including strangers – but if you are a regular, they are like the bar of the 1980’s sitcom “Cheers” where everyone knows your name. Great coffee, some morning chit-chat, a glance at the newspapers gathered on a nearby table, and a “ci vediamo domani” when you leave.



One day, while Edit and I wandered around the city, we stopped at a modern-looking café on via dei Serpenti. At first, we just wanted a coffee, but we saw that they offered ready-made food which looked great, so we decided to have lunch. We had grilled vegetables, a quinoa salad, and, of course, coffee. It was a modern interpretation of a classic Italian “tavola calda”! Great food, great prices, friendly staff…new, but authentic. This was a revelation for me – authentic didn’t need to be old, but it was something from the heart. True to oneself. Develop an interesting concept and go for it.



We stumbled upon another great, new authentic bistro not far from the via Cavour Metro B stop – “Cucina e Camicia”. A simple daily menu, a friendly staff, great food (and no one prostituting themselves to drag in clients). They seem to serve the nearby engineering school of University of Rome, but all clients are treated well. Did I mention they offer great food?



Despite the negative change in Rome, there are many “authentic” Romans. Outside of the food industry, the best example lies in the local artists who surround Piazza San Cosimato. Not only have they taken a great initiative of running a summer film festival, but they work with shop owners to embellish Trastevere with street art! One Sunday, coming home from a weekend at the seaside, Edit and I found our street, via Bertani, was the center of Bertani Fest – a neighborhood festival featuring food, music, art, and spectacle. There was even a sophisticated mechanism made of wood and rope that dunked volunteers into a pool. Not just a simple, hit the target with a ball and dunk the person into a pool, but a mechanism of gears, slides, and counterweights that Leonardo Da Vinci might have designed. This was authentic Trastevere!



Fortunately, I discovered authenticity midway through the course, and I was able to enjoy Rome to its fullest. Once I realized what “authenticity” meant for me, it became easy to identify and I realized there was still a lot of authenticity in Rome. 

(composed in summer 2016)




Photos Eric De Sena, 2016. 

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